The door frame parade

The door frame, commonly referred to as the door jamb, is one of the most frequently underestimated components of a door. Yet it plays just as crucial a role as the door leaf itself in determining the door’s stability, airtightness, and overall appearance. Whether you’re planning a new room door, renovating an old frame, or simply want to understand which door frame is right for which wall—this guide provides all the answers.

As a door fitting manufacturer, door handle manufacturer, and glass door systems provider, GRIFFWERK knows: A well-chosen and properly installed door frame is the foundation for a door that functions reliably over the long term, closes tightly, and looks great. We explain the different types of door frames, what they’re made of, how to measure the correct size, and what to look for when purchasing.

Frames are usually made of wood or wood-based materials. For fire protection or security doors, frames can also be made of steel or aluminum. As a rule, the frame is made of the same material as the door leaf, but it can also be different: Glass doors, for example, usually have a frame made of metal or wood.Frames are usually made of wood or wood-based materials. For fire protection or security doors, frames can also be made of steel or aluminum. As a rule, the frame is made of the same material as the door leaf, but it can also be different: Glass doors, for example, usually have a frame made of metal or wood.

In the case of swing doors, the door frame is used to hold the door hinges. These are connected to the door leaf and attached to the so-called frame leg. The hinge function allows the door leaf to be rotated so that the door opens and closes. In addition, the frame bears the weight of the door leaf via the door hinges.

In the case of single-leaf doors, the strike plate is anchored in the opposite side of the frame. This refers to the openings in which the lock latch or lock bolt engages when closing.

There are also frame models with a circumferential rebate - a step-shaped recess. The door leaf fits exactly into this recess, so that the door closes particularly tightly. In some cases, plastic seals are even installed in the frame rebate, which allow the door to close particularly quietly or almost airtight.

Whether perimeter frame, corner frame, through frame, block frame or frame frame - all these door frames are mainly used for doors in masonry or concrete walls. For lightweight walls in drywall construction, special stud frames are used.  We explain the different types of door frames.

Three dimensions are decisive for the right frame - and always in the finished state (including plaster, planking, floor structure):

Measurement checklist

• Measure the carcass opening at the top/middle/bottom, check diagonals (squareness).
• Document any unevenness in the reveal; plan compensation if necessary.
• Observe the manufacturer's dimensional tolerances; plan for installation wedges/clamps.
• When renovating: Inspect the old frame (damage, bonding, plastering).

Typical orientation values

• Wall thickness 100-115 mm → often drywall construction; cladding width approx. 60-70 mm.
• Wall thickness 120-145 mm → standard masonry; cladding width approx. 70-80 mm.
• Wall thickness 150-180 mm → thicker walls/old building; cladding width approx. 80-100 mm.

Tip: Note down wall thickness + floor structure + desired stop direction (DIN left/right). This speeds up consultation and ordering.

• Observe moisture/fire protection requirements (suitable frame/seal).
• Observetemperature/humidity when foaming; too much foam will warp the frame.
• Document gap dimensions, plan for readjustment after 24 hours.

What should you expect? Prices vary according to material, surface, frame type and special dimensions.

• Surround frame, wood-based material/CPL (standard): approx. 120-250 €
• Block frame, lacquered (design/flush): approx. 250-450 €
• Frame/corner frame (renovation/robust): approx. 100-220 €
• Steel/aluminum (functional/high-frequency): approx. 200-500 €

• Installation by a specialist company: approx. 120-250 € per frame, depending on the work involved.
• Disassembly/disposal of old frame:30-80 €.
• Special dimensions/extras (e.g. special coverings, sealing packages, sound insulation): Surcharge depending on system.

• Material & surface: CPL/laminate usually cheaper than lacquer; metal more robust, more expensive.
• Frame type & tolerances: Block frames require precise openings; assembly costs increase.
• Dimensions & wall thickness: Special dimensions, wide claddings → surcharge.
• Function: Damp room, sound insulation, fire protection → certificates/components more expensive.
• Design: Flush solutions, concealed hinges, narrow shadow gaps → Surcharge.

Tip: Obtain offers with clear item prices (frame, accessories, installation, dismantling) - makes comparison and recalculation easier.

1. Recordwall thickness & opening dimensions exactly (incl. plaster/covering).
2. DetermineDIN direction (hinge side: left/right).
3. Selectframe type: Surround frame (standard), block frame (clear wall connection), renovation frame/superstructure (existing without caulking).
4. Coordinatematerial/surface (e.g. lacquered, CPL, veneer) - to match the door leaf & handle world.
5. Plan details: Cladding width, edge radius, sealing profile, skirting board connection.

If the old frame is to remain, the look can often be modernized with minimal dust: With overpanel/renovation frames orcustom-made panels, you can cover the existing frame without having to chisel it out. Plan the joint pattern carefully: a narrow shadow gap between the cladding and the wall is visually calming and conceals slight reveal tolerances. Check the skirting board connection (miter, notch, end caps) so that lines run through to the wall and floor. In corridors with many doors, it looks more harmonious if the width of the cladding, edge radius and surface of all frames are coordinated - if necessary by matching the lacquer/CPL. In the case of glass doors, a cladding thickness that matches the door ensures that the fitting and frame appear close to the surface and that there are no unruly offsets.

Anyone who focuses solely on the door frame when installing a new door isn’t thinking far enough ahead. After all, a door’s appearance is always the result of how its various elements work together: the frame surface, door leaves, door handle, and fittings form a visual unity—or they don’t. A painted white door frame with a polished stainless steel door handle looks harmonious. The same frame combined with a graphite black handle creates deliberate contrasts. The key is that this choice is made deliberately and consistently.

Coordinate surface and finish: The frame sets the base color—usually white, grey, wood grain, or a painted finish. The door handle should either echo the same tone or create a deliberate material contrast. GRIFFWERK recommends: Always choose the finish of your door handle and fittings in relation to the frame color. Matte finishes (e.g., satin stainless steel or matte black) appear calmer next to structured or painted frames than high-gloss finishes—especially in modern, minimalist interiors.

Balancing trim width and hardware size: Wide door frame trims with sweeping profiles pair well with classically proportioned long backplate sets. Slim, flush-mounted frames, on the other hand—as are often installed in modern new buildings—call for equally minimalist fittings: narrow rosettes, clear lines, none of the superfluous ornamentation. GRIFFWERK offers both: from timeless classics to purist design handles, tailored to different frame profiles and door leaf thicknesses.

Tip: Plan the door frame, door leaf, handle, and Fitting together from the very beginning. What looks harmonious in the showroom or on the screen saves you from having to make corrections later—and results in a door design that truly impresses.